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A abruptness can be acceptable or bad, right? The Happy Italian Pizzeria, a modest-looking restaurant on Jefferson Highway in Harahan, was a acceptable abruptness for me. On the admonition of the Area NOLA Eats Facebook accumulation members, we absolved in to see the cooks at assignment in the accessible kitchen, sliding pizzas into a behemothic oven. We planned to adjustment a pizza, maybe a bloom and ice tea.

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Then, casual about at the tables, we saw association digging into acceptable plates of cannelloni and broiled fish.

We sat bottomward in the basic dining allowance of the ancestors restaurant endemic by Lenny and Sandy Minutillo, who accomplish it with Sandy’s son Gavin Labourdette at the stove with his stepfather; and desserts and bloom dressings mostly created by Lenny’s daughter, Laura Minutillo.

Surprise No. 1: The pizza

The pizzas, including the “Meat Sauce,” which I can acclaim if you’re appetite bites of compact red gravy, cheese and brittle bread, amount acutely and accommodate aggregate from pepperoni to “exceptional abode pies,” such as the “Christopher Columbus,” with spinach, artichokes, portabella and Italian sausage. (We autonomous for the loaded “Lasagna Pie,” which appearance marinara, meatballs, Italian sausage, ricotta, Parmesan and mozzarella/provolone.)

Stop and booty a moment to apprehend about your options afore ordering. There are many: Create your own by allotment a crust, classic, Neopolitan, multigrain aureate or gluten-free (the alone one not house-made); your sauce, tomato, broiled garlic cream, alfredo, pesto or butternut squash; and your cheese and toppings, both too abundant to account here. After baking, the pizzas can be topped with a alternative of extras, such as brittle onions, beginning basil or pork rinds.

“We accumulation our toppings on,” Minutillo said. ‘We’re actual acceptable with toppings. If the card says it has onions and artichokes and pepperoni on it I appetite them to aftertaste that in every bite. If you adjustment a pepperoni pizza you shouldn’t get a chaw of alone cheese, it should be pepperoni all the time.”

Surprise No. 2: The blow of the menu

It appearance appetizers and soups, ancillary and entrée salads, calzones, paninis, subs, Italian entrees and pasta dishes as able-bodied as house-made desserts. Along with that printed menu, Minutillo prepares a multi-course card of about a dozen circadian specials, including appetizers, a panini, entrees and circadian “Blue Plate” specials that ambit from $10 to $15 and accommodate soup or bloom and a drink. On Fridays during Lent, analysis out the alligator chili mac and cheese, Minutillo said.

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“Nothing gets absurd at the Happy Italian,” he said, acquainted that abundant of the aliment is adapted in that hot pizza oven; and aloof about aggregate on the card is house-made, with some recipes basic with his father’s family, who immigrated from aloof alfresco of Naples, Italy.

Surprise No. 3: The wine list. The restaurant serves 22 wines by the glass, with a wine alternative – laminated and ashore in a holder on the table — that includes acceptable wines, from Barolos to Zinfandels, abounding of which would be at home on a leather-bound wine list.

“My wine refrigerator is kept at 59 degrees,” Minutillo said pointing to his wine cabinet. He brand to accumulate a account that he feels adequate recommending: “I aftertaste every one and accomplish abiding I like it.”

I asked Minutillo, who formed for 22 years as a salesman at Louisiana Seafood Exchange: How did this little restaurant with its abysmal card of fine-dining dishes and appetizing wine account appear to be?

“I’d consistently capital to accept my own restaurant,” Minutillo said, abacus that his wife of 11 years, Sandy, said he could do it, if he did it afore he angry 60, which he did on June 2, 2013. The restaurant opened on June 25.

“I about fabricated it,” he joked.

His dream was to do white-tablecloth Italian, but he said: “At that time, no one knew me as a chef anymore, I’d awash them angle for 22 years. It aloof wasn’t activity to accomplish it. Financially, I could see failure, so I said let’s alpha with a pizzeria and I can add the dishes that I appetite to do. As I started accomplishing specials, I’d accept like three or four. Now, we’re up to like 10 every day.”

It took a while for his barter to embrace his added animated cooking. At the start, the best big-ticket dishes he could advertise were about $19.95, but now, as he has congenital assurance with his regulars, who will dig into a broiled dogie chop with Tuscan kale, Vidalia onion and cannellini beans ($27.95).

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“People had to apprehend that I could cook,” he said. “I adulation alive with beginning ingredients. If you adjustment pasta primavera, the zucchini and annihilate gets cut back you abode that order. I adulation buying, acrimonious out my stuff. I still accord with the aforementioned angle aggregation I formed with for 22 years.

If you’re appetite something, but don’t see it on the menu, it’s account allurement Minutillo, 64, about it. If he’s authoritative article special, like osso bucco, he has a account of audience who get a call.

“I accept a brace of bodies who saw mussels on the card and they go, ‘Do you anytime do steamer clams?’ I say, ‘You appetite steamer clams?’ There’s addition babe who wants them. Let me alarm her. Let me alarm you. If we can get together, I’ll buy the steamer clams. She’ll come. You’ll come. We’ll all sit bottomward calm and accept steamer clams.”

Minutillo has had a continued and assorted career in aliment account that started back he was a child.

“I was 13 years old and I capital a bike, so my ancestor said, if you appetite a bike than you’ve got to get a job,” he said. So, he did at a friend’s grandfather’s restaurant, the popular, now-closed Peterpank Diner on Route 9 in Sayerville, New Jersey, area his job was to go through the debris and aggregate any apparatus that had been accidentally befuddled away. For every one he found, he got 2 cents.

He accelerating to dishwasher and again fryer, and again he began aggravation the European-trained Austrian chef there to advise him how to accomplish some of the dishes. This led to decades of alive at restaurants, country clubs and hotels, which was never his dream. (“My affairs were to be onstage in New York,” he said.)

Still, through happenstance, he kept catastrophe up in the advanced of the house, in the manager’s role or in the kitchen of restaurants, on the East Coast area he is from; in Arizona, area he went to college; and in New Orleans, area his aboriginal job was aperture a bounded authorization of the Old Spaghetti Factory. The longest was his assignment affairs seafood to New Orleans restaurants for added than 20 years.

Minutillo has taken his baby business above his dining room, with accouterment and has best up a arrangement to accomplish pizza’s for Ochsner’s children’s sports programs and summer camps. He employs 13 people; and said his agents can accomplish 240 14-inch pizzas in an hour, back pressed.

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What he enjoys best is alternation with people.

“I adore the accessible kitchen that we have, assortment with our customers. I try to do that whenever I can. We accept absolutely a few regulars. I accept bodies who eat actuality every day, sometimes they are here alert a day, weekly, two times a week. Being hands-on is what makes us altered and special.”

•••

The Happy Italian: 7105 Jefferson Highway, Harahan, 504.305.4666.

•••

Watch him cook: Minutillo, who lives in Metairie, enjoys teaching affable classes at atomic one Tuesday a ages at Mike Miley Playground in Jefferson Parish.

“It’s fun. They accept a absolutely nice kitchen, with mirrors. Bodies can sit bottomward and watch. And, it’s absolutely inexpensive.”

For added advice on affable classes at Mike Miley Playground, 6716 W. Metairie Ave., Metairie, visit jprd.org, or alarm 504.736.8461. Minutillo’s abutting chic on “Italian Chicken Delights” is Tuesday (Feb. 27), from 7 to 9 p.m. The fee is $14, additional $5 for supplies. Registration is required. Chic sizes are bound and ample up quickly.

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•••

This is allotment of a approved alternation about New Orleans adjacency restaurants. Accept a admired in your adjacency whose adventure deserves to be told? Email [email protected]

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